Antonio Saramago, Reserva White, 2018

This wine smells and tastes like a farmyard, and I wouldn't have it any other way.

It's like the best of white burgs - lemon zest, hay, churned butter, something smoky and a little bit sweaty.

Anthony Hanson was the first author to write, unflinchingly, in his book on Burgundy that: 'Great Burgundy smells of shit.'

This doesn't quite go that far - but it's certainly right up my street. 7 months in French oak, a further 12 months in bottle - yep, this is why Portuguese value for money is off the scale.